Concealing under the eyes can be tricky–you want to make sure that you’re drawing LESS attention to the area and not more. If you have the wrong formula, the wrong color, or the wrong technique for applying it–you’ll look even worse than before you started. We sell two great products for this: Facade’s very own Invisible Touch Concealer (available in two shades: 1 and 2) and it Cosmetics’ BYE BYE Under-Eye (available in four shades: light, neutral-medium, tan, and deep).
Here are some tricks to keep in mind:
1.) Apply foundation FIRST. Use one that can be lightly applied even around the eye area (all of the foundations we sell at Facade are great for this). This starts to conceal discoloration around the eye- especially pink- and allows you to get away with using less concealer. If you applied concealer first, when you apply your foundation, you may end up accidentally removing some of the concealer you already applied!
2.) Find a color that matches your skin almost exactly instead of one that is a few shades lighter. If however, you can’t find an exact match, going with the lighter tone rather than the darker is usually best. If your shade is TOO light, you get the dreaded reverse-raccoon effect!
3.) PAINT & PAT to blend. We’ve all done it before—you use this sweeping painting type motion to blend the color of your concealer, and end up moving the product off the very spot you were trying to conceal! This compromises your coverage and ultimately takes longer. Instead, use a SMALL concealer brush like Facade #1 Corner Concealer to PAINT the concealer exactly where you want it. Then use the flat side of a Facade #3 Concealer brush (or a CLEAN finger) to PAT (or tap) over the area you placed the concealer. This blurs the edge and diffuses where the concealer stops and starts, without moving it from the area you were trying to cover. DO NOT continue to paint/sweep unless you accidentally applied too much and need to remove some. Sometimes I will use my finger to “pat” instead of my brush because the warmth of my skin helps the products sort of “melt” into the skin and look the most natural.
4.) Above all else (except maybe color) placement is key. When you conceal the entire under-eye area, it can look heavy and masked. Plus, if you conceal the whole thing, it takes away the illusion of making the dark areas come forward. Using the “paint and pat” technique, place the color where you need it:
a.)Most women are the darkest right at the orbital bone under the eye, So color needs to be placed directly over this area. Sometimes we refer to this natural dip in the contour of the face as “THE DITCH”…okay it might seem a little harsh, but it gets the point across, right? Put your concealer RIGHT in the ditch!
b.) Some women have more bluish or pinkish color extending up toward the inner corner of the eye, so I’ll fatten the line of the ditch just in that area. Now pat to blur the edges! (Not everyone needs to do this—so if you don’t have it, keep your “ditch” line thinner…)
c.) Also some women will have a little pinkness directly under their lower lashes. If this is the case, to make the eyes appear more alert, I will cover the pink by using the concealer to almost LINE the bottom of the eye. Keep it THIN and always PAT using your finger or a brush to blur!
d.) Most women also want a little lift at the outer corner of their eyes. If this is the case, apply a line that slants up and out from the outer corner of your eye.
e.) Not every woman will need to cover ALL of these areas. I typically end up applying some in the “ditch” and some at the outer corners of the eye for most women. Pick and choose what is necessary for YOUR face. The less concealer you end up using, the more natural and crisp you will look. Remember to always step back from the mirror to make sure you’re actually making IMPROVEMENTS! Below is what it would look like to cover all the suggested areas before blending. Notice the “puff” part of the eye is never concealed since it already comes forward–the point is to bring all of the areas that don’t appear to come forward to look smooth and flush with this part!
Stand up and step back from your computer screen to see what an improvement these techniques can make! Especially from far away!